Thursday, September 5, 2013

Product Spotlight: Cimexa Insecticide Dust


            Over the past few years, the Bedbug population in America has skyrocketed. Whether you travel often or not, you have no doubt heard or experienced horror stories of someone taking a trip and at some point picking up the insect and unfortunately brought it home and spent hundreds if not thousands of dollars to get rid of them. This insect is like an epidemic. This blood sucking bug has become a focal point in many local media channels and as the buzz has spread throughout the country, so has the desire to develop methods to eliminate them. Pesticide manufacturers are developing and introducing the new products almost weekly it seems like. While there has not been any end all be all product just yet, companies like Rockwell Labs have really made some strides and turned some heads with the products they are developing.
            One of the newest products from Rockwell is Cimexa Insecticide Dust. Designed with Bed Bugs in mind, this product is also labeled for fleas, ticks, lice, cockroaches, ants, termites, spiders and much more. The ingredient in the dust is Amorphous Silica Gel which essentially is a dessicant similar to diatomaceous earth. This is not a normal ingredient in pesticides and is much safer for humans than your typical insecticide dusts. According to Rockwell Labs, the silica rapidly absorbs moisture and destroys the waxy cuticle of insects causing rapid dehydration and death.
            Apart from the unique killing action and low toxicity to humans, Cimexa Insecticide Dust also offers many unique options that other dusts simply cannot. First, not only can this product be used as a typical dust, it can be used as a spray application once mixed with water. Once sprayed on, the water evaporates leaving the silica viable once again. Because of this option and the relative safety of the product, Rockwell labs has been able to get a broad label for this product that allows it to be used in almost any areas including the more sensitive application sites such as daycares, health care facilities and food handling and processing establishments. Rockwell recommends applying this product at a rate of two ounces per 100 sq. ft. using a hand or power duster. When mixed with water, they recommend one pound for every gallon of water. When it comes to its main targeted pest, bed bugs, Cimexa Dust has a broad label that allows you to apply it in almost any area including mattresses and box springs. The additional areas are other pieces of furniture, wall voids, cracks and crevices, etc.  

            Rockwell Labs truly has delivered a great product in Cimexa Insecticide Dust. There truly is not another dust out there that allows you to treat for not only bed bugs, but drywood termites as well. Innovation like this should help you believe that this company develops and delivers some of the best and most unique products in the industry. Be sure to check out their other great products and receive fast, free shipping on whatever you find. 

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Who Invited You?


          Every Thanksgiving sometime after the big meal, my family has a tradition of watching the movie Christmas Vacation. Why on earth did we begin to watch a Christmas movie on Thanksgiving Day? Heaven only knows. No matter how many times I have seen that movie, it never seems to lose its luster. There is something to laugh about it in almost every scene. For those of you who have not seen it, Eddie, a cousin-in-law to the main character is the fun-loving screw up that keeps many of the scenes light-hearted and easy to laugh at. The premise of the story is the main character desires to have an “old fashioned” family Christmas at his home and everyone is to stay in his home. By everyone, I mean all the guests he actually invited. One particular evening just a few days before Christmas, Eddie appears in the front lawn with his family, uninvited and intend to stay through and beyond the holidays. While Clark Griswold could not prevent his extended family from entering his home, there are things you can do and inspect to keep uninvited guests, particularly rodents, from entering your home this winter.
            There are several measures you can take to keep rodents and other pests from entering your home. Traps can be placed, baits can be used and sprays can be applied to kill bugs before they make it too far. But often times one of the most effective methods of control is simply to make it as difficult as possible for pests to find a point of entry in the first place. With a thorough inspection of your home and maybe just a little work, you can drastically reduce your chances of having a cousin Eddie this winter.
            One of the easiest ways a rodent or any other pest can get into your home is through openings you have “provided” for them. The best examples of this are utilities going into your home. This can be anything from water, to gas, electricity to cable; any opening to allow pipes in or out needs to be examined and sealed off if necessary. Don’t forget about the dryer exhaust vent. Examine the vent on the inside and outside. Rodents are notorious for chewing their way into things and they may just chew threw the stretchable connection from your dryer to the exhaust connection on the wall. Once you have examined these areas, move on to all door frames and window sills. Poorly sealed windows and doors are easy access for unwanted pests as well. Rodents and other pests can follow drain lines as well, examine the point of entry into the wall or floor and seal the cutouts if necessary.

Protecting your home this winter can be as a simple as ensuring all openings and cracks around the perimeter of your house are properly sealed up. As I have learned from National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation, the holidays are all about spending time with the guests you HAVE invited. 

Sunday, August 25, 2013

Insect Identities: German Cockroach


          Germany, the fifth largest country in all of Europe has provided the world with many good and bad things. On the one hand, Deutschland has provided us with great beers, even better cars (Mercedes Benz), and my personal favorite, German chocolate cake. On the other hand, tragedies that cannot even begin to be explained happened at the hands of German Soldiers throughout the reign of Hitler’s Third Reich. And yes, you might also think that because of its name, the German cockroach hailed from there as well. But believe it or not you would be wrong. The Blattella Germanica as is its scientific name actually came to America by way of Africa, which is its native country and has become America’s most common household insect.
            When fully mature, the German cockroach can be anywhere from ½ to 5/8 inches in length and will have a tan or light brown color. It is not uncommon to find multiple nymphs hanging around as well which is typically around 1/8 inch long. This particular species has an extremely high rate of reproduction throughout its lifetime. The typical lifespan for a female German cockroach can be anywhere from five to six months. During this time, an adult female can produce four to eight egg capsules which can house anywhere from 30-40 eggs. Similar to the adult German roach, the capsule, or ootheca, is also light brown. Once hatched, it takes approximately 120 days for each cockroach to reach full maturity.
            As is the case with many cockroach species, the German cockroach is considered a scavenger and particularly like starchy foods but also eats sugars, meats, grease and other foods. Simply put, there is not much that a German roach will not eat. This species is also nocturnal, so sightings really only become frequent once the population reaches a larger size. Because of the high rate of reproduction and flexibility of diet, this species can become very common in apartment settings where the infestation can begin in one unit and spread rapidly over a short period of time.

            Control of this particular species is a two step process. We recommend not only using some sort of cockroach bait, but also ensuring that your home is not a conducive environment for them as well. As it states in the name, cockroach bait is intended to be a food source for the roaches that upon ingestion, will begin to breakdown the nervous system of the roach causing death. So when using a bait product, we want to make sure that we keep all food crumbs cleaned up and any bags or containers of food sealed properly so the only food source available is the bait. This will allow for a much faster acceptance of the bait by the insect population. We also want to make sure that we keep the home as neat and tidy as possible while treating for the German cockroach. This species of roach is attracted to clutter because it provides safe places to reproduce as well as hide out during the daylight. 

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Guests of Autumn


          This year the first day of fall lands on September 22nd. That gives us just over a month of warm weather days before the leaves begin to turn and temperatures begin to fall. The intense insect pressure the summer brings is beginning to drop off but just because fall is almost upon us, that does not mean all of the insects will be leaving with the warmer temperatures.
            If you follow this blog with any sort of regularity, then you might have noticed I like to refer to the Pest Control Technology Magazine (PCT) quite frequently. While the magazine is directed towards the Pest Management Professional (PMP), I believe that there is quite a bit of useful information to be found that homeowners can use as well. For instance, in the August issue of PCT, there was a short article written by Hope Bowman entitled “Fall Invaders- Are You Ready?” The article discusses four key species of insect that typically try to enter homes in the fall in attempts of finding an area to winter. The first species is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug. To you and me this is the most common species of stink bugs in North America. According to Bowman, “these pests have become an agricultural pest, causing damage especially to fruiting trees…” (Bowman, Pg. 62) The next insect species she discusses is the Boxelder Bug. This particular species is most abundant in the spring and summer typically taking up residence in plants around your homes; once autumn hits though, they begin to work their way indoors.
            Third on Bowman’s list was the ever popular Ladybug. This one everyone knows is most often found right around windows and on the window sills. Lastly, was the Cluster Fly; similar in appearance to the you average house fly, the Cluster fly’s large appearance and relatively slow flying habits are what sets it apart from the house fly. (Bowman, pg. 62)
            While identifying species is essential to good pest prevention around the house, it is equally if not more important to “pest proof” your home as well. What I really liked about this article is that after Bowman went into the species most likely to appear, she also gave some great information about how to “seal up a home” so that these occasional invaders are less likely to invade. The first thing she said is to “seal gaps around windows and doors, including garage doors.” (pg. 64) Any sort of space no matter how small, is a potential open door for these species. She went on to add it is equally important to “look for areas where pipes and electrical or cable lines enter the building.” (pg. 64) If there is any sort of gap, you will want to use expanding foam to seal up the area. To sum it up, I would recommend that before September 22nd arrives, take some time to go around your home and inspect for areas that insects may try to enter. The more thorough you are now, the less likely you will have to deal with any of these four species coming in with you for the winter time.

Works Cited

Bowman, Hope. Fall Invaders-Are You Ready?. Pest Control Technology Magazine. 2013

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Mr. Saccharina


          While few know him by name, most people know of and probably have seen/dealt with Silverfish. The Lepisma Saccharina which entomologists refer to it as can be found all across the country. Like most things, the Silverfish was named by its characteristics. A full adult is a gray blue blend with a shimmer to it that very closely reflects the color silver. And as for the second part of its name, if you have ever watched one make its way across the bathroom floor or a book shelf, you know that its movement mimic closely to that of a fish, just on land of course.
            Being born and raised in St. Louis, Missouri my whole life, I never had to experience the amount of insect pressure that I have become accustomed to down here in Houston. As matter of fact I can never remember a time when my parents had to hire a pest control company or even spray our home themselves. I guess bugs up there just know to keep to themselves. But there was one time in particular that I do recall having a slight problem with bugs getting into one of our bathrooms. Yes, it was Mr. Lepisma Saccharina and he came with quite a few friends. That is beside the point; what we needed to know was what they were looking for and how to get rid of them.
            Silverfish exist on food sources that are high in starch or carbohydrates. Paper items are usually their number one food choice. Areas such as the bathroom provide items like toilet paper or tissues that can attract this insect. Still bookshelves can be highly inviting as well seeing as they also provide a great place to hang out during the day since this insect also happens to be nocturnal. If not attended to, Silverfish can be very damaging to books; an average population can destroy several books in just a few short weeks.

            Controlling Silverfish is relatively easy and is best obtained by using some preventative measures. One of the first steps is to determine areas where they are likely to be. Areas to focus on are: kitchen, bathroom, bookshelves, attics and various cracks and crevices. In all these areas there is a good mix of food sources and harborage areas that can be highly inviting to Mr. Saccharina and his friends. Using a product called D-Fense Dust, treat cracks, crevices, light switch and electrical outlets, and other dark areas that could potentially house a Silverfish. Attics can also be very inviting since the chance of human contact or disturbance is very low. We recommend taking D-Fense Dust and lightly dusting all surfaces in the attic to help prevent a population from establishing. In areas where a dust might not work well such as on bookshelves or in drawers and cabinets, we recommend Dekko Silverfish Packs which are small square pieces of cardboard that has been infused with Boric Acid. This product offers an alternative food source that will help eliminate a Silverfish population once consumed. 

Thursday, August 15, 2013

Confused Cockroaches


          Every year, millions of Americans battle cockroaches in their homes or apartments. This epic battle is a constant struggle between man and beast (well sort of). There are so many choices out there today for “roach” control. One of the most popular techniques currently is baiting. No, you do not put a minnow on a hook and wait for a bite. Cockroach baits and other insect baits for that matter contain an ingestible insecticide that is infused into the “food” or inert ingredients. It is that combination that makes of the bait. While baiting programs around your home can be highly successful, as Bill Delaney described in a recent article in Pest Control Technology Magazine (PCT), there are factors that can cause confusion for the cockroaches and ultimately keep them from eating at the buffet you so graciously laid out for them. His article is entitled 12 Reasons for Bait Failure, and he accurately describes scenarios in which baiting for cockroaches may not work. So whether you are battling cockroaches at your home right now or not, you may want to read on to learn some tips that will help you be successful if you ever do find yourself in the ongoing battle that is man vs. cockroach. While all twelve reasons may not be applicable to home life, there are a few worth noting and taking into consideration for the future.
1.      Household chemicals: Products like 409 or Windex can have a severe effect on the outcome of your roach bait treatment. Any time you place bait or bait stations out, be sure you do not go back over and spray any type of chemical on or near the bait. Chemicals can act as a repellant for insects and can end up driving them away from the bait before they even have a chance to eat it. For most people, if you drop a piece of steak in the dirt, you probably are not going to eat it; spraying chemical all over the place is the same thing to a cockroach. I go even as far as to wipe down all the surfaces I am going to place bait with a warm, wet rag before applying my product.
2.      What are you using?: The active ingredients play a huge part in the time to kill after the bait has been ingested. There are quite a few baits to pick from out there when treating for cockroaches. Products containing boric acid can take much longer to kill than products that have active ingredients like fipronil. Each product will have its own set of strengths and weaknesses, and ultimately you will need to pick which one is right for your situation.
3.      Just how big are they?: Bait placements for cockroaches are usually only the size of a green pea. Well, depending on the size of the cockroaches in your infestation, the bait may be consumed quickly and will need to be reapplied in order to reach the ones that have been unable to feed. Monitoring bait placements daily can help you be successful.

(Delaney, PCT-July 2013 Pg.66-74)

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Controlling Crazy


            By definition, the word crazy can mean affected with madness. Until 2002, when a “new” species of ant was discovered in the Houston area, no one would have ever thought to describe an ant as being affected with madness. The Crazy ant as we know them can be seen running all over the ground at high speeds (for an ant) with no sensible pattern to their movements. It appears as if they are running away from something and at every turn are confronted with impassible objects and barriers, so they simply turn and head another direction. Another characteristic of a Crazy ant colony is the immense size of the population. You will certainly know when you have an infestation of these little guys as their colonies can number in the hundreds of thousands.
            At first glance, it may appear as if the dirt around your house is moving, but once you take a closer look you will be able to see that it is actually thousands of ants blanketing the earth. Sometime last year, researchers pinpointed the origin of this species as northern Argentina and southern Brazil. In South America, they are referred to as the Tawny ant. While most people who have had to experience an infestation of this ant have admitted that they seem to force the Fire ants out of the area, they have also admitted that while painful, the Fire ant also did a much better job of keeping to itself. Unlike Fire ants, who stay in their mounds, Crazy ants have found their way inside homes and electrical equipment causing costly damage and time consuming repairs. Because they are such a new species to the U.S., and colonies the colonies are so large in population, control of this ant becomes the next issue.

            From my ongoing contact with pest management professionals, (bug guys), I have heard every answer under the sun for an effective elimination of the crazy ant. The most effective insecticides I have been told contain the active ingredient Fipronil such as Taurus SC or Termidor SC. These products are most often used today as long lasting termiticides but many have found them to most adequately control crazy ants. Fipronil by nature is a non-repellant, meaning the ants cannot “sense” that it is there and since it is slightly slower acting, it allows time for the ants to transmit it between each other to help spread the chemical.  Both products can only be used outdoors and since the Tawny ant does invade homes frequently, different methods are necessary to eliminate them indoors. While they can appear anywhere, most often this ant can be found in areas of high moisture such as the kitchen or bathrooms. In These areas most people prefer baits. Ant baits typically create little or no mess and can be applied much more precisely than sprays. Ant bait stations are easy to use self-contained baits that are usually sugar based and most often used. Still, many professionals are experimenting with more traditional types of bait such as Advance Carpenter Ant Bait that is labeled for Crazy ants. Whatever methods you choose, you will most likely find that this particular ant is a relentless pest and then you too may wish you had your Fire ants back!

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Product Spotlight: J.T. Eaton Top Gun Block


            Many people think that rats and mice are only a problem during the winter months, but high temperatures and lack of water can drive rodents indoors just as easily as colder temperatures. With the recent changes in rodenticide laws back in 2011, manufacturers all across the board had to make several changes to the product labels as well as the container sizes and packaging, making it difficult for users to understand what is considered “correct” by the new standards. But if you are looking for bait that can control a large population of rats or mice without using an even larger amount of bait, then Top Gun Blocks may be just what you need.
            The majority of today’s rodenticides are what is called anti-coagulants. This means that the active ingredients in those baits cause internal bleeding within the rat or mouse that will lead to eventual death. The results from anti-coagulant baits can take up to seven days before showing up. Top Gun Blocks however produce results in as little as one day! This makes for fast work if you are hoping to get rid of a rodent population in a short amount of time. Bromethalin is the active ingredient in Top Gun and its mode of operation is to attack the nervous system of the rat our mouse which provides much faster results than that of anti-coagulants. And while anti-coagulant baits require multiple feedings, a lethal dose of Top Gun can be consumed in just one night’s feeding. Because of the relatively higher level of toxicity that Bromethalin has, J.T. Eaton, the product’s manufacturer, developed this bait to contain an ingredient called Bitrex which helps keep non target animals from consuming the bait. Of course anytime you decide to use a rodenticide indoors or outdoors, you should always place the bait in some sort of tamper proof station to keep other animals and small children from getting into the bait. Top Gun comes packaged in 4lb containers is designed for “clean outs” or areas with high infestations. Due to the nature of the active ingredient and the low consumption rates required to administer a lethal dose, this is one of just a few rodent poisons that have a lower rate of secondary poisoning. This means that if a dog were to come across a mouse that had died from consuming Top Gun, that it would most likely not be affected if it were to eat the dead mouse.

            Rodent control can come in many forms and ultimately the situation is the deciding factor in which control method to use. While all methods have their place, rodenticides are perhaps the most efficient and effective manner of ridding a home or structure of rats and mice. Bait stations provide a safe place to put the poison without running the risk of exposure to non-target animals. If you are looking for a solution that will work quickly and effectively, be sure to check out J.T. Eaton Top Gun Block and get your rodent problem under control in no time.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Be Your Own Bug Man



            Owning a home is expensive, we all know it. If it is not a minor repair, it is a major repair. Maintenance on a home is year round, and pest control around the house should be done year round as well. Fortunately, doing a general pest treatment around your home is easy and very inexpensive. A basic pest control treatment around the house typically includes a perimeter spray of both the inside and outside of the house.  
Before you begin to treat the home you will want to make sure you have all of the necessary tools. These things include but are not limited to: an insecticide concentrate, one or two gallon pump-up hand sprayer and personal protective equipment which is typically, a mask, gloves and protective eye wear  Next, make sure you have pump up sprayer to apply an insecticide with. If throughout the year, you also use your sprayer to use herbicides such as round up or a broad leaf weed killer, we recommend owning two sprayers and keeping one for herbicides and the other for insecticides so that any residue left in the tanks does not accidentally get sprayed in an area you would not want it to. Once you have all the necessary equipment to perform a general pest treatment around your home, you will want to select the insecticide that is best suited for your needs. While the end results of the chemicals are all very similar, they all have slight differences that you will want to take into consideration when making a decision. For instance a product like Viper has a great knockdown but also a strong odor. D-Fense SC has no odor and great residual, but the initial knockdown is not as fast as Viper. Once you have determined what you are looking for in an insecticide, you will want to look over the labels of each product to ensure that it lists the particular types of insects you want to kill. Most general insecticides cover the basic list of pests that are likely to enter your house; we refer to these insects as occasional invaders.

Okay, so you have ordered your chemical and necessary equipment, and thanks to Solutions Stores, it arrived in just two or three days, what is next? Before you begin spraying, examine the product label again and determine the proper amount of chemical to mix with a gallon of water. To mix the product best, we suggest pouring half of the water in your sprayer then add the chemical followed by the remainder of the water. Once the lid is on, shake thoroughly. Beginning with the outside of the house, spray approximately six inches up on your house and six inches out from your house on the ground; this creates a 1 foot wide barrier from any invading pests. Also, spray around any door or window frame as well as any weep holes your home may have. On the inside simply spray all cracks, crevices and baseboards. An even coating is all that is needed. After all the spraying is done, stay away from any treated areas until the chemical has had enough time to dry. All in all, the spraying should not take any longer than an hour and can potentially protect your home for as long as three months from occasional invaders. Owning a home is expensive, doing your own pest control is not! 

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Bug Busters


The old phrase, “there is more than one way to skin a cat” is seldom used anymore, but the fact still remains. When it comes to ridding your house of bugs, you might be surprised to find out there are multiple ways of achieving the same goal. Thanks to ever increasing technology, science has led pest control into a whole other dimension than that of our parents and grandparents. The vast majority of today’s pest professionals couple their insecticides with an insect growth regulator (IGR), and the best part is so can you.
            IGRs can be a useful tool in quickly controlling several types of insects including cockroaches and fleas. The mode of action for insect growth regulators is vastly different than insecticides in that it does not necessarily “kill” or eliminate an insect, rather it disrupts the growth and development that occurs during its life cycle. Almost all species of insects go through some sort of stages, whether it is through instars or molting. It is during these stages that IGRs are effective and can control insect species.
            Insects such as cockroaches, fleas and bed bugs have stages. Bed Bugs have a total of 5 instars and cockroaches molt. But it is not until an insect becomes a full size adult that they have the ability to reproduce. Insect growth regulators are designed to disrupt those stages and prevent immature insects from developing into adults. At Solutions Stores, we often refer to IGRs as “birth control” because they eliminate insect populations through sterilization. Now because they do not actually kill the bugs, products like Pivot will take slightly longer to control a population of insects.
            Let’s say you had a bad flea problem in the carpet of your house. If you were to take a product like Pivot and mix it with an adulticide (insecticide) like Fenva Star Plus, conversely you could control the population much faster. We recommend using IGRs with insecticides whenever possible to more effectively get rid of the problem. We have several insect growth regulators to choose from so be sure to read over each to determine if the product is right for what you are trying to accomplish.

            German cockroaches are notoriously known for how rapidly they reproduce. German roach populations can get out of control in a hurry. Because of this, Zoecon, a professional pesticide manufacturer, has developed a unique product using an IGR in a disposable and easy to use station that can fit essentially anywhere. Combined with a cockroach bait, Gentrol Point Source is one of the best products available to quickly eliminate a severe roach problem. They are very simple to use and consist of paper, plastic and tiny reservoir of Hydroprene (the growth regulator) that is “snapped” similar to that of glow sticks. Once you have cracked the reservoir, the Hydroprene leaks onto the paper filter station and will begin working immediately. All you have to do is determine the best locations for the stations and place them. If you have any questions, give our friendly staff a call at (800)-479-6583. 

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Product Spotlight: Propiconazole Select


            When people think of the word “pest,” most often the image of an insect comes to mind. The term “pest control” is widely used to refer to the process of eliminating and preventing bugs from entering the home or other areas. But, the definition of the word “pest” is much broader. A “pest” is anything that is a nuisance and/or detrimental to other living organisms. Insects do fall under this definition, but so other living organisms such as a fungus. Now you may not have to worry about a fungus crawling its way in through the sliding glass door and building a village within your wall void, but fungi can present a strong threat to your yard, including the lawn, ornamentals and trees.
            There are a number of fungicides available today and even more types of fungus that can cause harm. Of the long list of excellent products to use, the staff here at Solutions Stores has found a handful that we think will cover almost any type of fungus that you may come in contact with. One of those products is Propiconazole Select. We chose this product because the label is very diverse and can be applied directly to the plant life being harmed as either a foliar spray or systemically. Made by Select Source, this product contains 14.3% Propiconazole, a powerful fungicide.
            Residential lawns are suspect to a number of diseases: Dollar Spot, Brown Patch, Powdery Mildew, Summer Patch and Take-All Patch just to name a few. On ornamentals, various types of blight and rust can attack and kill in just a matter of weeks. What we like about Propiconazole Select is that it can be used on all those diseases and more. Sometimes pesticides can have very confusing labels when you are sitting there, trying to read through and figure out how to apply the product to eliminate the problem you are dealing with. The label for Propiconazole Select is very easy to read and is very clear on mix rates and application instructions for every disease it is labeled to control.
            For instance, let’s say you want to treat your yard for Brown Patch. On Page 5 of the label you will see a very basic chart with target diseases, one of which is Brown Patch. Once you have located Brown Patch, you would see that they recommend 1-2 oz. per 1000 sq. ft. But how often should you spray? Right next to the mix rate it recommends you wait 14-21 days between sprays. They also provide insightful instructions for each disease. For instance, with Brown Patch, they recommend you first begin treating in May or June. And when the temperatures really start heating up and humidity is high, they also say to increase the mix rates when applying as well as shorting the intervals between sprays.

            Check out our entire section of fungicides and find the one that is right for you. If you have any questions, feel free to call us at (800)-479-6583 or shoot us an email at askapro@solutionsstores.com

Friday, July 19, 2013

Four Fangs of Fear


            Growing up and even now, I have always had two major fears, spiders and snakes. I am not alarmed by the sight of spiders nor am I afraid to squash one with my bare hand. But get me around a large tarantula and then you have got my attention. However when it comes to snake I have no partiality,  I dislike them all! Even the smallest Garter snake and you have my attention. Believe it or not, even when I was in college, just the simple sensation of a pet reticulated python lying on top of my feet had me shaking and sweating. I am like Indiana Jones in some aspects except I am not an archaeologist and I do not have a cool whip. I just do not like snakes.
            In all of North America there are around 130 species of snakes and not all snakes exist in every region. Snakes like most animal life have different habitats based on geographic locations. Fortunately for me, the most deadly snakes in this world all exist and are native to continent other than North America. Yes, North America does have poisonous snakes, but the 20 species we do have are comprised of only four types of snakes. Those four types are Rattlesnakes, Cottonmouth, Coral snakes and Copperhead. In total, there are two types of coral snakes, 16 species of rattlers and then the other two, none of which I care to come across. Due to the vast diversity our continent has however, no matter where one travels, the potential to find a venomous snake is always there, but sightings in most northern states and in particular those closest to Canada are far less likely than in the milder climate states.

Currently, Copperheads account for the majority of poisonous snake bites in the United States, but fortunately they also happen to have the least venomous bite of them all. Coral snakes and Rattlesnakes contain significantly greater toxic venom that Copperheads or Cottonmouths (Water Moccasins as some refer to them).  Cottonmouths are much more prolific in swampy, wetland areas such as Louisiana for example. While a Water moccasin bite rarely causes a fatality, if not treated properly, swelling and loss of a limb are strong possibilities. Coral Snakes have three distinct colors: red, yellow, black. The Milk snake has the same three colors as well, but you do not want to mix the two up. As I young kid, I was taught a saying that everyone should know and keep in mind when spending time in areas where Coral snakes exist. The saying is “red to yellow, kill a fellow, red to black, venom lack.” The saying is simple and straightforward. If the red bands on the snake have yellow bands on either side, then it is the poisonous Coral snake. But if the red bands are surrounded by black bands, then you are safe. And if you are like me, then you do not really care what the color is because you will not be touching it anyway. 

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Product Spotlight: Extinguish Plus Fire Ant Bait


            I cannot recall many experiences in my life where I have seen the expression “you get what you pay for” proved wrong, but when it comes to controlling Fire Ants, Zoecon just may have a product that can allow you to effectively eliminate this painful and troublesome pest at a very low cost. While Fire ants have not yet found a way to make it into the parts of the U.S. that see months of cold winter temperatures, they have been successful when it comes to getting into pocket books of everyone who lives in the warmer climate states. There are several options out there for one to pick from when it comes to treating for this particular species of ant. Some products are designed to kill populations on a colony by colony basis. Granular based insecticides can offer up to one year’s worth of control, but can only be applied by professionals and can end up being quite costly for homeowners. So where does that leave the “do-it-yourself” homeowner that does not want to pay the price for a professional, but wants good lasting results? He/she needs a product that can effectively eliminate the Fire Ant population without eliminating all the cash in his/her wallet. One excellent choice is Extinguish Plus Fire Ant Bait.
            There are two active ingredients in this bait, Hydramethylnon and Methoprene. The first of the two is the main active which does the killing. Once the bait is gathered, worker ants bring the bait (food source) back to share with the colony. As the ants eat it, they ingest the Hydramethylnon which acts as a stomach poison, killing each ant in a short period of time. The Methoprene is designed to inhibit the reproduction of the queen which prevents colonies from growing and reproducing while the bait spreads its way through all ants in the colony.

            What makes Extinguish Plus such an affordable and effective solution is that one pound is enough to treat an entire acre! Fire Ants are foragers, so products like Extinguish Plus can be placed around mounds or as bait placements spread evenly throughout larger areas. If you decide to place some bait near a mound, be sure not to apply bait directly to the mound or disturb the mound in any fashion. Anything found on the mound by a Fire Ant is considered debris and is removed and not taken into the colony. Control of larger areas can take longer as the ants will have to forage to the bait placements before bringing back to share with the colony. The product label offers valuable information that can help you get the most out of the bait so that you can be satisfied with your results. Extinguish Plus truly is an economical solution for homeowners that are looking for an effective product with long lasting results. This bait can even be used on recreational fields and playgrounds so it is safe for children who typically spend more time outside. 

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Insect Identification: Whitefly


          When most people think of doing pest control around the house, they are usually thinking of just that. Spraying insecticides, putting out traps, applying bait around the perimeter of the home. Truth be told, most pest control is done in and around the house. Beyond that many people then look to their yards, the grass as the next most likely place to be treated for annoying bugs. But areas such as flower beds, planted trees and other landscaping often go overlooked. The fact of the matter is those areas are just as susceptible to insect infestations as the home itself. And because these areas typically are not given preventative pest maintenance coupled with large numbers of prime habitat, insect populations can be particularly prolific and detrimental to host plants.
            One insect that meets the criteria above is the Whitefly. With over 1500 species identified, the Whitefly is a parasitic pest who feeds and survives off of plant life such as crops, trees, palms and many other host plants. An infestation of Whitefly appears as vast number of small white dots that appear on the underside of plant foliage. Since most plants are near other plants, transfer of the Whitefly from one host to another happens rapidly. Whitefly feed on host plants by tapping into the phloem of the plant which provides the nutrients to all parts of the plant. Phloem is similar to the human vascular system. Removal of vital nutrients from the plants does damage to the foliage of the host plant. Coupled with mold that is created from the honeydew that Whiteflies secrete, damage to plants happens in a short period of time once this pest appears.
Prevention and Control of Whitefly

            Take some time this weekend and go out into the yard to inspect your plants. Practically all types of plants are susceptible to Whitefly infestation so you will want to be as thorough as possible. Inspect each plant individually making sure to look at the underside of the foliage as this is where the pest makes its home. You are looking for small white dots attached to the greenery. If you find some, it may require more thorough inspection as often times White Powdery Mildew, a fungus, can be mistaken for Whitefly. Research online for pictures of both and once you determined that it is in fact Whitefly; you will want to treat all the plants in that area to eliminate and prevent the pest. One good choice is a product called Malathion 57%. This chemical has been around for a long time, and while it does have an odor, it can be used to spray directly on fruit bearing plants such as citrus trees.  As long as the fruit is washed, it is safe to eat as early as two weeks after application. Another excellent product is Imidacloprid 2F which is designed to be applied to the soil around plants and trees and then absorbed through the plant roots and eventually makes its way into the foliage through the Phloem. 

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Product Spotlight: Malathion 57%

The summer really is the best season of the year. School is out, pools are open and fruits and vegetables are growing. Growing your own garden is one of those rewarding hobbies where you can literally see the fruits of your labor. And if you own a garden, you can probably vouch for just how much labor really goes into tending to plants. Observing rainfall amounts, placing plants in your garden according to the sunlight they require. And of course there is pruning, trimming, feeding and protecting. Depending on where you live, you may have to protect your garden from animals such as deer or from bad weather. But no matter where you live, everyone has to protect their plants from bugs. Bugs are everywhere and unfortunately can do some pretty significant damage to gardens. Often times preventative measures are necessary and will provide your plants with the best opportunity to grow happily and healthily.
            An old standby that has been used for years and years by many commercial farmers is Martin’s Malathion 57%. No need to worry, this product can be bought homeowners and requires no special license to use. Chances are your parents and even grandparents have used this product. Produced by Martin’s, Malathion 57% is a versatile product that be used on a number of plant types to kill a variety of insects. Once diluted with water, this product can be used on vegetables, fruits, nuts, ornamentals, trees, pastures and even yards. The specific use sites can be found on the product label that is located on the bottle. When using products directly on plants, first find the proper mix rate for the pest you are trying to eliminate as well as verifying the product is labeled for use on the plant or area you intend to treat. For the best results, we recommend applying to as much of the foliage as possible to the point of run-off. This ensures that the greatest possible surface area is covered and with an adequate amount of chemical. Capable of eliminating a multitude of pests, Aphids and White Flies are just two of the most common insect pest species. Malathion 57% is labeled for dozens of use sites including the most common residential garden inhabitants including: citrus plants, tomatoes, corn, squash, peaches, pecans etc. There really is not much that the label does not allow you to treat.
            Just like any other insecticide, we recommend you do not come in contact with any treated areas until the product has had enough time to dry. When spraying directly onto product bearing plants, we recommend waiting at least two weeks before harvesting and consuming and of course, wash the produce thoroughly before eating. So don’t let all your hard work this summer be destroyed by warm weather pests, order some Malathion 57% and protect your garden from invasive pests so that you can enjoy the your hard work in the fall. If you have any questions, visit our Contact Us page and speak with one of our helpful staff. 

Friday, July 5, 2013

Bed Bug Walking


          It is hard not to get grossed out anytime someone begins to talk about Bed Bugs. There are just a handful of creatures on earth that survive by feeding off another’s creatures blood, and of all those parasites, my least favorite would be the Bed Bug. Though weather can have an effect on the activity of this insect, bed bug populations do not diminish when the colder temperatures hit. No, this insect spends its entire life indoors and thanks to its nocturnal nature, most of the time; you will not even see it.
            For most people who have had an infestation of this bug, the first evidence of a problem is most likely a number of bumps or welts on the skin that appeared overnight. Similar to mosquitoes, Bed Bugs bite the skin and draw blood, which is their sustenance. Being a nocturnal insect means that most of the time, this bug is active and feeds when it is dark out. But, this does not apply to every scenario. In homes where the people work the nights and therefore sleep in the day, Bed Bugs have been recorded to become more active in the daylight because that is when taking a meal from the host is easiest. Whenever not active, this insect will group together in dark, protected areas to seclude themselves as well as provide protection. It is in these areas that the Bed Bugs will reproduce, go through the instars (insect growth) and even defecate.
            Because they prefer to be nocturnal, the best time for you to inspect the home is during the night when they will be out in search of a meal. It is recommended to begin your search near areas where people sleep, but with the ability to travel over 16 feet in just five minutes, you may even notice bugs in other areas of the home. Addition to the nighttime, hungry Bed Bugs are also more likely to move around than ones that have fed, (like an insect couch potato). Tell tale signs of a Bed Bug infestation are small reddish-brown stains on mattresses and other pieces of furniture. Tufts and seams are furniture is prime areas for them to hide out during non-moving hours, so be sure to check those areas when inspecting. Additionally, hitching a ride with a human is a great way for this bug to begin establishing populations in different parts of your home, so the sooner you discover the problem, the easier it will be to control and eliminate.

            The best Bed Bug treatments are the ones that are most thoroughly done; because they like to hide out in small, secluded places, the more invasive the treatments, the better the results. Products like Vector Ban Plus and Cimexa are excellent products designed to kill Bed Bugs quickly (and affordably)! For a good Bed Bug Guide, check out our website and watch the video as Keith properly explains areas to inspect and treat. Don’t forget, if you have any questions, just give as a call and we will help you “Do-It-Yourself!”

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Product Spotlight: Cyonara 9.7



             Many of the southern states have become over ran by a species of ant commonly referred to as the “Crazy Ant.” While the actual name is the “Tawny Ant,” this particular species gets its name from the erratic movements and overall randomness of the path this ant takes while moving around. Anyone who has this ant can tell you they are relentless and unfortunately, while they can be managed, they probably will not ever disappear. This ant appears just about anywhere, whether inside or outside, the colonies number in the thousands. In particular, they love electrical outlets and junction boxes and have been known to cause quite a bit of damage. If you live in the south and have not had this little guy invade your home, chances are you will probably very soon.
            Adequate control of this ant has proven difficult to achieve. Here at Solutions Stores, we have found only one good solution so far. There really is not a better name for the product. Made by Control Solutions, Cyonara 9.7 is up for almost any task, in particular Crazy (Tawny) ants. This is one of those products where as they say, “a little goes a long ways.” Containing Lambda Cyhalothrin, Cyonara 9.7 packs a huge punch. According to the label, it can be used at a rate of anywhere from .2-.8 oz. per gallon of water. You should always read label instructions to determine where you can apply the product and how much chemical should be mixed before you begin spraying. Lambda Cyhalothrin is a very powerful active ingredient so in addition to your normal protective equipment (gloves, mask, eye protection), it is also recommended to wear pants and a long sleeved shirt as this active ingredient can cause skin irritation.
            Check the label out on this product as it can do a number on a multitude of other pests as well. Cyonara 9.7 is a water based insecticide with an odor similar to cherries, so while it can be used indoors, this may be a product you will only want to use outside. Part of the reason customers have been so pleased with this insecticide is due to its extremely rapid knockdown. In particular, the Crazy ants will die so quickly that the bodies will start massing and if not swept up, will simply allow other live ants to walk right over the dead ants and never come in contact with the chemical.

            So if you are in need of a product to take care of the increasingly popular “Crazy” ant, this would be a great choice for you to check out. As a matter of fact, if you are looking to purchase an all around product to use outside whether on the foundation and sides of your home or as a broadcast on the lawn, Cyonara 9.7 is a product you need. When you go to check out, be sure to add a chemical safety kit to help you stay safe!